Bordeaux, je t’aime...

As if we didn’t receive enough holidays, we were treated to yet another day off on the 11^th November for Armistice Day.  As it fell on a Thursday, this essentially meant we had a five-day weekend, perfect to get out of our respective cities and discover more about the region. Having toyed with the idea of going to Amsterdam (too far), Paris (too expensive), and the South Coast (too wet), we settled on spending out impromptu holiday in Bordeaux. Although it is not that far (about three hours drive from Sarlat and the train goes direct from Sarlat to Bordeaux via Bergerac), I for one still hadn’t really been there and we were all pretty pumped (for want of a better word) to discover more about it.

I have always thought that if I were to live for a substantial amount of time in France, I would live in Paris. Obviously. But now I am really not so sure. For after having spent three days in the city of Bordeaux, the pedestal upon which I so confidently placed Paris upon has become a little unstable. I suppose this is predominantly a result of spending a substantial amount in the South, as this wee map testifies...

The South-Wester's vision of La Belle France

Bottom line is; I officially love Bordeaux.

Six of us went; Ellie, Mandy, and Ben from Bergerac, Robbie from Perigueux and Joe and I from Sarlat. We stayed in a petit ‘deux etoiles’ hotel on Rue Huguerie in the centre of Bordeaux, about 3 minutes walk from the Place de Quinconces. It was an amazing location – and a pretty amusing hotel. Having booked the cheapest rooms possible, the first night saw an instant upgrade to a ‘deluxe’ room with a shower and toilet. No idea why, but I wasn’t complaining. For the second night though, we were plonked back into our rightful place, into a room that was little more than a bed in a corridor. The communal toilet was next door and shower was four floors above. It was simple, but functional and in a prime location.

The day we arrived was absolutely pouring with rain so after a particularly wet bit of sightseeing in the city centre, we all went our separate directions to see what we wanted. Mandy and I saw the imposing Monument aux Girondins and the Esplanade des Quinconces before trudging around the Jardin Publique, which was absolutely stunning in spite of the rain. We ended up in a bar on a beautiful square in the city centre (Place Camille Julian), sipping Leffes and drying our sopping feet. After a quick nap, change and a recuperation of energy back at the hotel, we all headed out for dinner. By now, the rain was torrential – not something you want when you trying to find a compromise between six different opinions, purses and taste buds. Thankfully, we finally found a busy little restaurant where we ate outside, underneath some outdoor heaters watching the rain pouring down around us.

We followed dinner with another wet walk in search of a bar before ending up going to one right next to our restaurant. After a few Sangrias in a Spanish-themed bar, we got our boogy on in a super-chic Bordelaise bar/club. For some weird and wonderful reason, we thought it would be a good idea to finish the night at a strange underground club with a lot of sweat, sticky drinks, sleazy men and loud music (pretty much identical to old Garibaldi’s in Edinburgh, the favourite haunt of our misspent youth!) 

Robbie and Mandy at Esplanade des Quinconces with a tram in the background

Monument aux Girondins

Mandy in the Jardin Public

The Autumn colours in the Jardin Public

Ben and Ellie on the rainy way to dinner

Me. Ben. Sangria. Wiggid

Friday morning was a lot less dreech and, after bidding goodbye to the Bergeraçois– who were heading off to spend the next night in Périgueux – we walked towards the waterfront and took in the view. Bordeaux’s 18^th century ‘golden age’ is very much in evidence on the waterfront, with impressive Parisian-esque buildings testament to the extreme wealth that arose through the slave trade of this port city, manifest in the Place de Bourse, Porte de Bourgogne, Porte Cailhau and the Grosse Cloche at St Eloi.

The afternoon was spent at the Musée d’Aquitaine, followed by a quick visit to the Conservatoire de Bordeaux, Hotel de Ville, and Cathédrale. We indulged in a couple of macaroons, the specialty, on the walk back – I highly recommend Apple and nut or chocolate and honey. So delicious. Later that evening, we found a maybe not so French titled restaurant (‘5^th Avenue’) just off main Rue Georges Clemenceau. Nevertheless, it but was definitely the best meal that I had in Bordeaux, maybe that I have had so far in France. There was a really lovely atmosphere, wonderful staff and seriously amazing food. Both of us went for salmon (my third time in 2 days – well, we were nearer the sea!) – Joe had a salmon steak and gratin dauphinoise and I had salmon tartar with legumes. Obviously, it was followed with some cheesecake. Best. Meal. Ever.

As it was such a nice evening, we followed the meal with a wander around town, stopping off at the ‘Apollo’ for un petit verre. It was absolutely packed and, as we started to notice, a lot of the people there were chatting in sign language. As we were having our drink, we were joined by two jeune Bordelaises, Julie et Eric, who told us that Friday night actually also coincided with the meeting of the sign language school – an evening where they were given a chance to practice their sign language skills with one another. Julie and Eric, and their friend Hugo who joined us for a bit, were very friendly and invited us to come with them after to see the Miroir de l’eau – on the Quai de la Douane, which is apparently where all the ‘young’ hang out to meet and drink without being bothered by the horde of tourists thronging the city centre. The atmosphere on the waterfront was amazing, and the view of the city lights reflected in the river was spectacular. After drinking it in, we took a tram down to Place de la Victoire – the ‘students’ quarter, where we had a drink there and discussed French politics. It was so interesting to hear a French point of view and also, I am intrigued to see how concerned many of the French people that I have met are with the how the rest of the world perceives them.

Place de la Bourse

One of the Portes (Disneyland perhaps?)

Typical Bordelaise street

The area around the Musee d'Aquitaine

Grosse Cloche

Not quite sure but think this is the Eglise Protestante Temple de Ha

Cathédrale St-Andre

Hotel de Ville

Les Macaroons

 We awoke to sunny skies on Saturday, and spent the morning at the Galerie et Musée des Beaux Arts. There were some really incredible sketches of the body in the Galerie – although the studies were painted about three or four hundred years ago, some of them looked so modern (especially those that were done in coloured chalk with white chalk highlights – they almost looked Hockney-esque). The gardens at the Musee were incredible – words can’t really do them justice so I’ll just compensate with the pictures.

  

Joe in the gardens of the Musée de Beaux Arts

Perving on a Jewish wedding ceremony!

The gates at the Musée

Me and my new reptilian mate

Random crocodile sculpture at Musée

Suffering from a bit of ‘cultural fatigue’, we then walked up to the Jardin Public where we had a drink in the sun and watched the world go by before walking back around time one final time.

The Jardin Public

Monument de Girondins again - looks better in the sun

Crusties practicing juggling at the Miroir de l'Eau on the river-front

Place de la Bourse

Place de la Victoire - plein des étudiants

Sunset on the university at Place de la Victoire

One final look at the city centre

That evening, we drove across town to Stade Chaban Delmas, to catch the Bordeaux-Nancy football match. It was a good thing we were so early cause it was an absolute nightmare trying to park (Dad was so right about the parking in Bordeaux. I almost cried!) For a football-sceptic, I am a little bit ashamed to say that this was one of my favourite parts of the trip! The atmosphere in the stadium was electric. We had bought tickets from a young Bordelaise who was trying to flog ones that were going spare, so we were seated in the liveliest stand in the whole stade. Well, I say ‘seated’, no-one was actually sitting down. Everybody was standing on their chairs, shouting, singing, jumping... all egged on by ‘professional supporters’ who stood at the front with microphones and lead the crowd in all the chants and songs.  That’s definitely a job Cel would be really good at! (As proven by his prowess on trains home after Welsh rugby matches... who else knows every single verse of ‘Bread of Heaven’)

Bordeaux scored within the first 15 minutes, and after not much action for the majority of the match, the final ten minutes were unbelievable! First, the opposition scored an equaliser which was blatantly offside - as expressed in extremely clear language by the Bordeaux supporters (my vocabulary has been greatly enriched!) Then, about three minutes later, the home team retaliated with a dodgy goal that so enraged the Nancy team, they threatened to storm off the pitch. Both goals were so dubious that they didn’t replay either, for fear that it would enrage the crowd!

Bordeaux vs Nancy at Stade Chaban Delmas

(Massivest. Guy. Ever. JOKES!)

So in all, it was a pretty successful trip. Apologies for a bit of a long and rambling post, I was just so enamoured by all that the city had to offer, and so taken by the cosmopolitan atmosphere, the phenomenal variety between each different quartier  and the warmth and geniality of the Bordelaise, that I just can’t stop gushing about it! Thank GOD I’m relatively close to such an amazing city as Bordeaux... I’m a very lucky lady!